Vintage Shoulder Wrap UK

Here it is, another one of my patterns in UK terminology. Make sure that you check which pattern you have otherwise you might get into trouble while making the shawl (UK vs US terminology, I mean).

Make sure to credit me, my blog or my Facebook page when you post/show your work online. I have no problem with people using the patterns and showing of the result, but mentioning where you got it from gives me credit and also makes sure other people have access to the pattern.

If you have any questions concerning the pattern or if you would like to receive the pattern as a document (.pdf) contact me via my Facebook page and I will try to help you as soon and as well as I can.

Enjoy!

 

VINTAGE  SHOULDER  WRAP

UK

© Will Vissers @ CraftHeart

The following pattern will help you make the Vintage Shoulder Wrap (for a picture see above). This shawl is basically a baktus-variation (long, but not very wide) crocheted using a variation on the linen stitch.

Read the entire pattern before you start crocheting the shawl to make sure that you know what is expected and what you should watch out for.

This document is not a full-on written pattern of the Vintage Shoulder Wrap, but it will give you the tools to make this shawl by following the diagrams (partly written). It will also provide some ideas of what to do with the shawl and how to finish it (edging, etc.).

IMPORTANT  INFORMATION

Important stitches/patterns:

-         Variation on the linen stitch

-         Variation on the linen stitch with one-sided increase

-         Variation on the linen stitch with one-sided decrease

-         Edging (the one provided or one of your own choice)

Yarn used:

-         Julia (antique pink / beige) – 2 skeins (200 gr) --> used for the baktus

-         Royal (white) – 1 skein (100 gr) --> used for the full border and the bottom edging of the shawl

Other:

-         10.0 mm crochet hook à for the baktus

-         4.5/5.0 mm crochet hook à for the border and bottom edging

-         Tapestry needle

Measurements:

You can make this shawl in any size you want; you can make is as wide and as long as you want to. For this Vintage Shoulder Wrap I used just under 2 skeins of yarn. If you would like to make the shawl (the basic baktus) longer and/or wider you will probably need more yarn (at least 3 skeins instead of 2). For the border and edging 1 skein of Royal will still be enough, when you choose to make the shawl larger (but it may be smart to have 2 skeins of yarn, just in case).

Sections:

This shawl consists of 4 parts

1.       The first section of the baktus (±1/3 or 2/5 of the entire shawl)

2.      The middle section of the baktus (±1/3 or 1/5 of the entire shawl)

3.      The final section of the baktus (±1/3 or 2/5 of the entire shawl)

4.      The full border and the edging

Proportions:

As described above there are no official measurements for the shawl but getting the proportions right for the shawl is very important. You can choose for 1 – 1 – 1 (3 parts) or 2 – 1 – 2 (5 parts).

± 3 parts     -     1 – 1 – 1

± 5 parts     -     2 – 1 – 2

The chosen proportions of the shawl are of course the maker’s own choice. I chose the proportions which closely match the 2 – 1 – 2 option.

FIRST  SECTION

The first section is made using a linen stitch variation as soon as possible, but the top edge of the baktus is kept nice and straight by increasing 1 stitch on the end of every second row (the green row in the diagram).

Diagram first section:

x                     =   double crochet

–   of   |          =   chain

The diagram above only consists of 20 rows, but in order to continue just keep increasing 1 stitch (1 double crochet) every second row – you increase 1 stitch every even row. Continue increasing every even row until you have reached the appropriate width (you decide) of your shawl.

Written pattern:

Chain 2.

1.                   1 dc in 2nd ch from hook ; ch 1 (in order to turn your work)

2.                  2 dc in dc previous row ; ch 1

3.                  1 dc in every dc of previous row ; ch 1

4.                  1 dc in 1st dc ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in final (2nd) dc ; ch 1

5.                  1 dc in 1st dc ; 1 dc in ch 1 space previous row ; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

6.                  1 dc in 1st dc ; ch 1 ; 2 dc in final dc ; ch 1

7.                  1 dc in 1st dc ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

8.                 1 dc in 1st dc ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

9.                  1 dc in 1st dc ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in ch 1 space; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

10.              1 dc in 1st dc ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; ch 1 ; 2 dc in final dc ; ch 1

11.               1 dc in 1st dc ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

12.              1 dc in 1st dc ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

13.              1 dc in 1st dc ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

14.              1 dc in 1st dc ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; ch 1 ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; ch 1 ; 2 dc in final dc ; ch 1

Continue the pattern increasing 1 dc at the end of ever second row (the even row of your work) until desired length of the first part of the shawl. After this you will continue with the middle section of the shawl.

MIDDLE  SECTION

The middle section of the Vintage Shoulder Wrap will be made using a variation on the linen stitch again. In this section of the shawl there will be no increases or decreases, which makes sure that the shawl has a nice straight middle section.

Diagram middle section:

The provided diagram only consists of 5 rows, but in order to give the middle section its appropriate length you will only have to repeat row 1 and 2 of the diagram.

Written pattern:

…         end the previous row (last row of the first section) with ch 1 in order to turn your work.

1.                   *1 dc + ch 1 (dc in ch 1 space previous row)* – repeat from * till * until final dc previous row ; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

2.                  1 dc in 1st dc ; *1 dc + ch 1 (dc in ch 1 space previous row)* – repeat from * till * until final ch 1 space of previous row ; 1 dc in final ch 1 space ; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

Repeat row 1 and 2 until you have reached the desired length of the middle section. Keep a close eye on the proportions of your shawl.

Make sure that you end the middle section with a row that is an even number, this makes sure that you can start the final section of the shawl with a row that has an odd number.

 FINAL  SECTION

Het final section of the shawl will be crocheted using a variation on the linen stitch (again), but in order to end exactly the same way the first section began, there will be a decrease at the beginning of every odd numbered row of the pattern (the rows in red).

Diagram final section:

The diagram for the final section of the shawl only shows the final 21 rows of the shawl. However, it shows you how the decreases are made at the beginning over every odd numbered row.

Written pattern:

…         end the previous row (the final row of the middle section – the row with an even

number) with ch 1 in order to turn your work

1.                   1 dc in 2nd dc previous row ; ch 1 ; *1dc + ch 1 (in ch 1 space previous row)* – repeat  from * till * until final ch 1 space previous row ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

2.                  1 dc + ch 1 in 1st dc ; *1dc + ch 1 (in ch 1 space previous row)* – repeat  from * till * until final dc ; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

3.                  1 dc in 1st ch 1 space ; ch 1 ; *1dc + ch 1 (in ch 1 space previous row)* – repeat  from * till * until final dc ; ch 1

4.                  1 dc in 1st dc ; ch 1 ; *1dc + ch 1 (in ch 1 space previous row)* – repeat  from * till * until final ch 1 space ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

5.                  1 dc in 2^nd dc ; *1dc + ch 1 (in ch 1 space previous row)* – repeat  from * till * until final ch 1 space ; 1 dc in ch 1 space ; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

6.                  1 dc in 1st dc ; ch 1 ; *1dc + ch 1 (in ch 1 space previous row)* – repeat  from * till * until final dc ; 1 dc in final dc ; ch 1

In order to finish the shawl (the final section of the shawl) you wil have to keep decreasing 1 dc every odd numbered row – in other words follow the diagram all the way to the end of the shawl. Then cut the yarn and make sure that all the ends are tucked away.

FINISH

There are various ways to finish the Vintage Shoulder Wrap. You can choose to finish the shawl with a simple border or edge using dc or tr (maybe even using the linen stitch), but you can also opt for an elaborate order or elaborate edging.

            The shawl in the first picture at the top of this pattern is finished using a border of dc around the bottom edge and the linen stitch around the top edge of the shawl. Attached to the border of dc around the bottom edge is an elaborate decorative edge/border.

To finish the shawl nicely you have to start on the right side of the shawl. You will have to decide yourself which side is the right side, so you can choose the nicest looking side of the shawl. Starting on the right side of the shawl, crochet dc (distribute them nicely) in a contrasting colour and appropriate crochet hook along the bottom edge of the shawl.

When you reach the first top corner (corner at the top straight edge of the shawl), distribute the dc in the corner nicely and then continue to crochet dc and ch 1 – this is the linen stitch – along the top edge of the shawl.

After you have finished this first border around the shawl you can start crocheting the edge you have chosen for your shawl. This edge is worked along the bottom edge of the shawl – you will have to turn your work ever new row.

Elaborate Border:

The decorative edge I chose to finish the Vintage Shoulder Wrap consists of a row of tr and ch 1 spaces and a couple of rows from an existing pattern.

Written pattern:

On the right side of the shawl (you have just finished the dc border around the entire shawl):

1.                   ch 4 (1 tr + ch 1) ; 1 tr + ch 1 in next dc ; 1 tr + ch 1 in next dc ; 1 tr + ch 1 in next dc ; * skip 1 dc ; 1 tr + ch 1 in next dc * – repeat from * till * until first corner (first and middle section corner) ; * 1 tr + ch 1 in dc ; 1 tr + ch 1 ; 1 tr + ch 1 in dc * in 3 dc of first corner ; * skip 1 dc ; 1 tr + ch 1 in next dc * – repeat from * till * until second corner (middle and final section corner) ; * 1 tr + ch 1 in dc ; 1 tr + ch 1 ; 1 tr + ch 1 in dc * in 3 dc of second corner ; * skip 1 dc ; 1 tr + ch 1 in next dc * – repeat from * till * until final 3 dc on bottom edge (the other point of the shawl) ; 1 tr + ch 1 in dc ; 1 tr + ch 1 in dc ; 1 tr in final dc of point.

It is possible that you have to adjust this pattern to have a nice finish in the two narrow point of the shawl and adjustments may also be necessary to distribute the stitches around the bottom edge in order to make sure that the elaborate edge will look good. It is a bit of a puzzle, but it is worth it.

After this first row you will have to ch 1 and turn you work in order to continue with the third row (the ch 5 arches) of the pattern below (I found it on the internet).

Diagram edge:

At this stage it is very important to distribute the ch 5 arches nicely across the previous row of 1 tr + ch 1. You can opt to crochet the dc between two tr (in the ch 1 space) or on top of a tr.

After this row (third row of the diagram) you can follow the diagram until you have reached row 6 of the diagram. In the final row of the diagram you can opt to leave the picot stitches out (I left the picot stitches out) and just crochet dc around the spaces.

When everything has gone according to plan you will have finished the border or edge around the bottom of the shawl on the right side of your project (row 6 of the diagram is on the right side of the shawl). Cut the yarn and tuck in the ends to finish your shawl.

  

SOME  PICTURES

I have also made the Vintage Shoulder Wrap a second time, using different colours of yarn. It turned out completely different and feels different. I do not have a diagram or a pattern of the border used on the second Vintage Shoulder Wrap, but maybe I will try to figure is out one day and it will appear as a pattern on this blog.